Medieval Van Life Trip - Day 1
- Andrew Lunn
- Apr 2
- 6 min read
"But then I walk through our streets today, and it leaves a bitter taste"
Clitheroe Castle and Whalley Abbey
I have always held a deep fascination for history, particularly 15th-century English history. The late 1480s, Richard III, and the Wars of the Roses captivate me like nothing else. Battles such as Towton and Bosworth are where my passion truly lies.
When I visit places like York, I can almost see the ghosts of that era moving through the town and down its narrow alleyways. I imagine soldiers standing guard on the walls, husbands and wives quarrelling, shopkeepers laughing, the mess, the stench, the sheer vibrancy of life.
It might sound odd, but I genuinely feel it. It’s as if I am torn from that time and placed here, a soul meant to walk the streets of the past. Sometimes, when I visit medieval churches like Arncliffe, the overwhelming sensation of belonging to that period nearly moves me to tears. It’s a feeling impossible to articulate.
The pages of history are mere turns away. We walk the same roads, follow the same paths, and gaze out from crumbling ruins through what was once vibrant stained glass. We literally stand in our ancestors’ shoes. How I long to return.
But then I walk through our streets today, and it leaves a bitter taste. Our towns are ravaged by litter, hideous neon signs, vape shops, takeaways, and the unwelcome cultural shifts brought by mass immigration and the ever-encroaching presence of Islam.
Our English culture, history, and traditions are being systematically eroded. No more Easter eggs, no more Lent celebrations, and Christmas itself is being reduced to appease those who hold no respect for our traditions. A vile religion of death is slowly replacing the values that once defined us. The older I grow, the more bitter I become at the sight of England’s slow demise.
But in the meantime, I am embarking on an 8-day van life trip—a medieval pilgrimage of sorts to rejuvenate my love for English history. While this blog isn’t intended to be a formal history lesson (though I might launch a YouTube channel for that), I will share some historical insights and my personal reflections on each location I visit.
Day 1 - Clitheroe Castle a Norman keep built in 1186
I began my journey in Clitheroe, where I visited a Norman keep. The keep stands proudly upon a limestone hill, its jagged walls rising steeply on all sides—a testament to why this site was chosen. The town’s main street retains a faint echo of the past, its low buildings gently curving toward what was once the Bailey. The town also boasts three churches that once served the villagers and workers, providing them spiritual guidance and penance.
The view from the keep is remarkable, stretching over valleys for miles. As the second smallest keep in Britain, it is quite barren inside, with only the main tower remaining. The museum, with its £5 entry fee, offers a glimpse into Clitheroe’s history from prehistoric times to the modern day. While it was interesting, I wish it delved more deeply into the castle’s own history.
Day 1 - Part 2 - Whalley Abbey
The first thing that strikes you about Whalley Abbey is its guardhouse—imposing and still equipped with the original 13th-century wooden gates. But then you step onto the main grounds and are confronted by devastation. The abbey lies in ruins, only fragments of its former grandeur remaining.
Once, beautiful stained glass, ornate carvings, and graceful stone steps adorned this place. Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries was a cancerous blight upon our sacred land. When he ordered the closures, 257 religious houses, churches, and monasteries were dissolved in the first year alone. And all of this devastation simply because he couldn’t remain faithful. To think how glorious England would be today if Henry had kept his lust in check. The Tudors can burn for all I care.
Medieval Van Life Trip
Still, Whalley Abbey is worth a visit. Walking the paths once trodden by our ancestors, feeling their presence—it’s a powerful experience. And it’s free, which is always a welcome bonus. Incidentally, whenever I’m deep in thought and exploring these historical sites, I often encounter a black cat crossing my path. Does it mean something? I have no idea, but it never fails to make me smile.
A somber piece of history to note: John Paslew, the last Abbot of Whalley, was hanged for high treason on March 9, 1537, on Lancaster Moor for refusing to accept Henry VIII as the head of the Church of England. That dark history feels so real when you stand in the ruins.
Day 1 - Part 3 - St Mary’s & All Saints Church
This church is a short walk from Whalley Abbey. Stepping inside, I was overwhelmed by the stillness, the sheer sense of being transported back in time. As I knelt to pray, I wished I could remain there forever. This was God’s house. This was Britain in its purest form.
Dating back to the 7th century, with construction continuing into the 14th and 15th centuries, the church remains breathtakingly beautiful. Its impressive organ and stained glass windows are remarkably well-preserved. Outside, the graveyard holds Saxon and Viking burial stones from as far back as the 6th century BC. The history in this place is almost tangible.
On the side of the church are the original door knockers once used by criminals seeking sanctuary. Knowing how many desperate hands must have clutched them over the past 900 years sends chills down my spine.
The town itself retains some charm, but the occasional takeaway and neon-lit shops spoil the atmosphere. And don’t get me started on the Turkish barber shops—little more than money-laundering fronts that blight the landscape. It’s impossible not to hate what the 20th and 21st centuries have done to this country.
As I sit here in my van outside the abbey, writing by the fading light of the sunset, I feel a rare sense of peace. But it’s time to find a place to spend the night. Perhaps I’ll drive into the hills and find solitude on the moorlands. The freedom of van life is truly unmatched.
The full trip will include visits to:
Clitheroe
Ludlow
Stratford-upon-Avon (Shakespeare’s birthplace, and museum which I will address as the butcher and decolonizer of our history)
Warwick
Leicester (Richard III Visitor Centre)
More to Follow, leave your comments below.
Andy. Directions. Whalley Abbey The Sands, Whalley, Clitheroe, Lancashire, BB7 9TN
Clitheroe Castle Norman keep
Castle Hill, Clitheroe, Lancashire, BB7 1BA Clitheroe Castle Norman keep. Origins and Architecture
Perched atop a limestone hill, the castle's keep is one of England's smallest surviving Norman keeps. Built in 1186 by Robert de Lacy, the keep is a prominent feature. The strategic location offers expansive views of the Ribble Valley, a testament to its historical significance in overseeing and defending the area.
Historical Significance
Throughout its history, Clitheroe Castle has witnessed numerous events. In 1138, during the reign of King Stephen, the Battle of Clitheroe took place nearby, where Scottish forces led by William fitz Duncan clashed with English troops. The castle's role as a defensive stronghold continued through various periods, including the English Civil War in the 17th century, when it was garrisoned by Royalist forces.
Lancashire Past
The Castle Today
Today, the castle grounds are open to the public, offering not only historical insights but also recreational spaces. The Clitheroe Castle Museum, housed within the former steward's house, provides a journey through 350 million years of local history, from the formation of the landscape to the present day. Exhibits include interactive displays, artifacts, and information about local industries, heroes, folklore, and legends.
As you walk around, you'll notice the remnants of medieval life, with the castle keep standing as a focal point. The surrounding gardens and parkland offer a peaceful environment, often used for community events and leisure activities. The panoramic views from the castle grounds provide a unique perspective of Clitheroe and the surrounding countryside, allowing visitors to appreciate the strategic importance of this historic site.
Comments